top of page

Search Results

68 objekt hittat för ""

  • Computing | Qâf ScaleModels Gozo

    Datoranvändning Jag lärde mig att använda datorer tidigt, jag har nu en doktorsexamen. I databehandling, mjukvaruprogrammering, hårdvarureparation, webbdesign och arbetade för en stor programvaruutvecklare och som senior datortekniker. Jag har några maskiner, som mest används för: Programvarudesign Programmering Skriva E-Learning-program Mina romaner webbdesign Foto- och videoredigering Sociala media Min första dator var ZX Spectrum; det var en 8-bitars personlig hemdator som släpptes i Storbritannien 1982 av Sinclair Research. Spectrum-datorn cirkulerades i åtta olika modeller, varierande från ingångsnivå med 16 kB RAM, till ZX Spectrum +3 med 128 kB RAM utrustad med en inbyggd diskettenhet. Andra första hemdatorer riktade till en vanlig publik i Storbritannien var: Commodore 64 Drake 32 BBC Micro Amstrad CPC Jag lärde mig att programmera på olika datorspråk med hjälp av ovanstående system. 1991 migrerade jag till en Microsoft-version med Windows 3.0. Det var en förbättring av de tidigare systemen som jag lärde mig om, men Win 3.0 saknade multimedia- och nätverksfunktioner, så Win 3.0 ersattes snabbt med Win 3.1 och dess utseende förbättrades gränssnittet.

  • Airbrush Troubleshooting | Qâf ScaleModels Gozo

    Airbrush Troubleshooting Airbrushing comes with some inherent issues, these problems and troubleshooting them vary and can be experienced at any time no matter how experienced the user, here are a few. Bubbling in the gravity cup or suction bottle. ​ Can be caused by air pressure entering the paint reservoir. There are several reasons, most common are. ​ An air leak in the air cap or nozzle area. Solution – Tighten the loose Air Cap or Head. ​ Needle tip dry is dry and has blocked the nozzle. Solution - Clean or Replace the Tip Dry or Blocked Nozzle. ​ The air cap or head is loose. Solution – Replace worn or damaged nozzle seal. ​ The airbrush nozzle has a split. Solution – Replace the Split Nozzle. The spray pattern is off-centre . ​ Normally caused by a bent needle tip. The paint or fluid exits the airbrush and follows the bend on the tip of the needle. ​ Straighten the Needle Tip – This can be achieved with a flat sharpening stone or two pieces of 1” x 2” wood. I use a SharpenAir , which is a hand-held device designed specifically for repairing bent and damaged airbrush fluid needles. ​ Replace the Needle. Airbrush does not spray paint. ​ There are a few that can cause this, the most common are. A blocked nozzle often caused by poor cleaning. The solution for a Blocked Nozzle is to soak and clean the nozzle. ​ For a loose needle chucking nut when the needle is not moving with the trigger action. Solution - Check and tighten the needle chucking or locking the nut. ​ The paint consistency is too thick. Solution - Thin paint with appropriate thinner, reducer, water to a milky consistency. ​ Inappropriate low air pressure. Sometimes the paint can be slightly too thick, and the pressure is too low to atomize. Increase the air pressure accordingly. Airbrush sprays paint when the trigger is depressed for air. Caused because the needle is not sitting flush inside the nozzle or you have the wrong nozzle attached for the size of the needle. Otherwise, if the airbrush only sprays a blob of paint when the trigger is depressed then follow the Air On – Air Off method - first depress the trigger, then pull the trigger back for paint flow and then after spraying return the trigger forward before releasing the trigger/airflow. Shutting the paint flow off before the airflow will spray any residue paint off the tip of the needle. ​ Unscrew the needle locking nut. ​ Gradually push the needle forward until it rests inside the nozzle. ​ Tighten the needle-locking nut. Air pressure remains on when the trigger is released. Often due to many several reasons, like residue paint or solvents entering the air valve and affecting the air valve seal to swell or become sticky. A slack air valve closure or guide screw will not compress the air valve spring enough to fully return and shut off airflow. Disassemble internal air valve components and lubricate with airbrush lube and re-assemble. ​ Replace air valve seals if they appear eroded by solvents. ​ Tightening the air valve closure or guide screw will compress the air valve spring and shut off airflow. Poor spray or splattering of paint. There are several reasons, ranging from. Paint consistency. Solution - Reduce to a milky consistency. ​ Low air pressure. Increase air pressure until paint atomizes. ​ Damaged needle. Replace needle or repair using the SharpenAir device. ​ Tip dry or a partially blocked nozzle. Remove the needle and clean with a Q-Tip or cloth dampened using an airbrush cleaner (always wipe away, airbrush needles are very sharp). ​ Residue paint build-up in the needle cap, nozzle, or air cap. Clean and replace if indicated. Spray Spidering. Often caused if the paint has been over-thinned. Solution 1 - Add paint to the mix or reduce air pressure. ​ Solution 2 - Do not draw the trigger back so far or increase the distance from the surface. ​ Also, caused by spraying the paint too heavily on a non-porous surface. Solution - having the air pressure too high. Solution - Add paint to the mix or reduce air pressure.

  • Care of Paint Brushes | Qâf ScaleModels Gozo

    Care of Paint Brushes Paint Brush Care Always dampen brushes BEFORE use unless they are specified dry brushes. If you load a dry brush with wet colour, the colour begins to dry in the centre of the bristles down close to the ferrule. Dampening the bristles reduces paintability to dry in the centre. But do not just dip the brush into the water and then go into the colour, the moisture needs to be worked into the hair/bristles of the brush. Working the brush on the palm of your hand and forcing the moisture into the bristles helps, it also transfers some of the oil from your hand and helps to condition the brush. Following that, dab the brush on a towel to remove excess moisture before dipping into the colour. ​ Never place brushes loaded with paint aside and allow them to dry in the hair/bristles. It is better to wash the brush immediately when done using them, even if the brush is only going to be inactive for a few minutes. When rinsing brushes, it is not advisable to scrape the brush around the bottom of the cleaning jar/container. Firstly, paint pigment drops to the bottom of the container, secondly, doing this can damage the hair/bristles. Some cleaning containers have drainage sieves or coils at the bottom so that any brush washed is kept away from the pigment sediment at the bottom, but rigorous cleaning on these can still damage hair/bristles. Gently swish the brush back and forth in the bowl and allow it to brush against the sides or bottom. Brush basins with rounded, textured bottoms are perfect for aiding the process. It is good practice to change the water on a regular basis and to have separate containers to wash different paint types. Being mostly involved in model kit builds, and do a great amount of airbrushing, I only use De-Ionised water. I have washpot/rinse pots for: ​ Acrylic paints an initial wash in between paint colour changes. Acrylic paints second rinse, following finishing with a particular colour, before proper cleaning and conditioning of paintbrush before putting away. Metallics. Decal brush, Washes, or Glazes. ​ Do not leave any brush in water for extended periods because with wooden brushes the wetness can cause the handle to swell, resulting in cracking paint and unstable ends. Synthetic brush hair is glued into position, and prolonged standing in water can break down the glue making the hair loose. ​ After rinsing, brushes do not allow them to dry with the bristles/hair face upward or flat on a rack or table, as this can damage the ferrule and can possibly soften the glue them as mentioned above. Drip drying racks are plentiful, these allow users to place brushes with their bristles/hair face facing downward, allowing the moisture to drain away. After washing the brush, check to see if any colour remains in the hair by brushing across a paper towel, do not push forward, as this will damage the bristles/hair. If the colour appears on the towel, rinse again. Cleaning materials advised are: ​ Brush Paint Cleaner or Purger Brush Conditioning Soap Brush Conditioner Gel ​ When storing natural haired brushes for long periods use a brush conditioner soap to thoroughly clean them. Brush Conditioning Soap or Gel can also be used to reshape the bristles/hair and stored in this way. ​ With Brush Conditioning Soap, moisten the dip the bristles/hair and gently work the bristles/hair into the soap, rinse and when no further paint pigment is visible in the Conditioning Soap, either twist into its original shape or use a Conditioning gel to do the same. ​ When storing brushes do not store them in confined containers where the hairs can get pushed out of shape or break.

  • Growing Orchids | Qâf ScaleModels Gozo

    Growing Orchids Växande orkidéer beror framgångsrikt på vilken typ av klimat originalet är infödd. Återskapa de förhållanden under vilka växten används i sitt naturliga tillstånd är avgörande för att säkerställa framgång. Hybrider är dock mer anpassningsbara än sina föräldrar och tolererar förhållanden som skiljer sig från deras föräldrar. Orkidéer anpassar sig till en av tre zoner eller temperaturband, i förhållande till var de växer, kom ihåg att även om en orkidé kan komma från ett varmt land, kan det väl växa i hög höjd och behöver en temperatur lägre än den som normalt skulle associera med det del av världen. Temperaturzoner Zoner kallas svala, mellanliggande och varma. Någon indikation på temperaturområdet för en orkidé kan samlas från bladen - svala växande växter har tunna löv - varmare kärleksfulla orkidéer har tjocka köttiga löv - naturligtvis finns det undantag från denna regel, så var försiktig. Att ge ett klimat av värme och kyla räcker inte, solljus som faller på växten måste också övervägas. Generellt behöver de flesta orkidéer skugga från direkt solljus och god luftcirkulation, precis som alla andra livsformer. För mycket ljus solbränner bladen till en gul eller mörkröd, inte tillräckligt med ljus resulterar i mörkgrönt bladverk och inga blommor. Minst 60% skuggning krävs på våren och sommaren och eventuellt till och med hösten om vädret är klart och varmt.

  • HDD | Qâf ScaleModels Gozo

    Hard Drives (HDD) A hard disk drive (HDD) is a storage device used for storing and retrieving digital information (data) HDD retains their data even when powered off, unlike memory RAMs. ​ There are three types of hard drives: SATA , SSD, and NVMe . ​ In 2003, SATA (Serial Advanced Technology Attachment) was introduced as the default interface for most desktop and laptop hard drives and referred to as SATA hard drives, but they are rotary hard drives with spinning platters coated with a magnetic material, with a moving needle that writes data to consecutive sectors on each platter. ​ Most computer HDDs are fitted into an internal drive bay in the computer and connect to the motherboard using a SATA cable. ​ HDDs can also be used as external devices these are reasonable as backup drives reducing the risk of data loss if the HDD fails. ​ The two most common form factors for modern HDDs are 3.5-inch for desktop computers and 2.5-inch for laptops. ​ A single drive can range from 80 GB to 16 TB and are reliable drives if you need a lot of cheap storage and do not need extremely high reads or writes. Since data is physically written to a disk, deleted, and re-written numerous times, it can become fragmented, meaning that different sectors can be spread across different areas of the disk, thereby slowing down the drive. HDDs also are vulnerable to shock or sudden movement since there are moving parts in each drive, which makes them a poor choice for laptops. Pros: Low cost. High disk sizes. Cons: Not good for laptops. Requires regular de-fragmentation. SSD stands for Solid State Drive , SSDs do not have moving parts. Instead, the data is stored on non-volatile flash memory. So, there is no needle that must move to read or write data, and this makes them significantly faster than SATA drives. It is difficult to define exact speeds because it varies by manufacturer and form factor, but the lower-performing drives are comparable to SATA drives. ​ The disadvantage is that they are significantly more expensive and do not come in as many sizes. SSD drives generally range from about 80GB to 2 TB. Since there are no moving parts, these drives are also more durable, and there are form factors built specifically for laptops, making them ideal for storage on the go. But they are still prone to failure. Pros: Fast More durable, especially for laptops Cons: More expensive than SATA drives Lower disk sizes Non-Volatile Memory Express, or NVMe Released in 2013, is a type of SSD that is attached to a motherboard fitted with a PCI Express (PCIe) slot. Incredibly fast, PCIe slots were originally designed for graphics cards. Speeds on NVMe drives can reach an interface rate of 32 Gb/s with a throughput of 3.9 GB/s, useful if gaming or high-resolution video editing. ​ Most older BIOS do not support booting from NVMe, so installing an Operating System on an NVMe, a motherboard upgrade may be required. Having worked for a major IT company and saw the distress on customers' faces when their HDDs failed and they lost their data, I always recommend the Cloud Storage option for important data or photographs. Data recovery on failed drives is awfully expensive and not guaranteed. ​ ​ ​ Protect your data, if you scrap an old computer DO NOT throw away your HDDs as they can be connected to your new computer using a USB adapter. Also, the important data stored on them can be retrieved by a second or third party, meaning they could have access to ALL your personal information, including passwords and bank details, so BEWARE! Dealing with HDD Error messages and issues

  • Networking | Qâf ScaleModels Gozo

    Networking and Internet It is a computer network is a group of computers or servers that use a set of common communication protocols over digital interconnections for the function of sharing resources located on or provided by the network nodes. The interconnections between nodes are formed from a broad spectrum of telecommunication network technologies, based on physically wired, optical, and wireless radio-frequency methods that may be arranged in a variety of network analysis situs. ​ Computer networks for the home and small business can be built using wired or wireless technology. In the past, a wired Ethernet has been the option is used in homes, but Wi-Fi wireless technology has improved greatly and is now commonplace. ​ Wired and wireless networks have advantages and disadvantages. They equally epitomise practical choices for home or other local area networks (LANs) and depend on the packages purchased by the user. ​ When possible, I prefer wired solutions as performance and security are better and more reliable. Wireless networks are convenient but can have performance and security issues. ​ Both have advantages and disadvantages. ​ Wireless networks allow devices to stay connected to the network but roam untethered to any wires. Access points amplify Wi-Fi signals, so a device can be far from a router but still be connected to the network. When connected to a Wi-Fi hotspot at a public place, café, hotel, airport lounge, the connection is with that business's wireless network. ​ Wired networks use cables to connect devices, such as desktop computers, laptops, or servers to access the Internet or additional network. A wired network has disadvantages when compared to a wireless network, the largest is that the device is tethered to a router. ​ Motherboards have at least one RJ-45 networking socket and some have integrated Wi-Fi adapters fitted. ​ A computer network is a collection of computers and/or hardware interconnected by communication channels that allow sharing of resources and information. ​ It is where a device, computer or server sends or receives data to or from another device, computer, or server in a remote location. When connected, the two devices are said to be networked. A network is a group is the sum of computers, tablets, phones, laptops, and servers that are connected. Networks are organised in a diverse group of physiognomies, such as, the method used to carry the data and communications protocols. ​ Communication protocols define the rules and data formats for swapping information in a computer network and provide the basis for network programming. Router A router is a networking device that forwards data several layer packets between computer networks, such as files, communications, and transmissions. Routers perform the traffic directing functions on the Internet. Data sent through the internet, like web pages or emails, data packets, a packet is normally forwarded from one router to router through the networks that make up the Internet until it reaches its destination node. ​ Data packets have several layers, or sections, one of which carries identifying information such as sender, data type, size, and most importantly, the destination Internet protocol (IP) address. The router reads this layer, prioritizes the data, and chooses the best route to use for each transmission.

  • HTML | Qâf ScaleModels Gozo

    HTML HTML is not a programming language, denoting it does not have the ability to create dynamic functionality. As an alternative, it makes it possible to organize and format documents, comparably like Microsoft Word. HTML stands for Hypertext Markup Language and it permits users to create and structure sections, paragraphs, headings, links, and block-quotes for web pages and applications. ​ When working with HTML, simple code structures (tags and attributes) to mark up a website page are used. An example being the creation of a paragraph by placing the enclosed text within a starting and closing tags. ​ Hypertext Markup Language (HTML) is the standard Markup Language for documents designed to be displayed in web browsers and can be helped by technologies such as Cascading Style Sheets (CSS) and scripting languages such as JavaScript. ​ Web browsers receive HTML documents from a web server or from local storage then render the documents into multimedia web pages. An example is: < !DOCTYPE html > < html > < head > < title > Page Title < /title > < /head > < body > < h1 > Heading of website < /h1 > < p > First paragraph used in site < /p > < /body > < /html > So, what does it mean? < !DOCTYPE html > declaration defines this document as an HTML5 document. < html > element is the root part of an HTML page. < head > portion contains meta information about the HTML page. < title > section specifies a title for the HTML page - used to name the 'Title' of your page. < body > element defines the document's body and is a container for all the visible contents - this is where you put your headings, paragraphs, images, hyperlinks, tables, and lists. < h1 > part defines a large heading. < p > section defines a paragraph/s the text written on this page is written in this section between the <> . ​ <> is known as 'Tags', there is a 'Start Tag' and an 'End Tag', data is written between them and ​ If you can right-click a web page and click on 'View Source' to see how HTML aspects of that page. HTML tags are like keywords that define that how a web browser will format and display its content. Using tags web browsers can distinguish between HTML and its content. HTML tags contain three main parts: ​ Start (opening) tag. Content. End (finishing) tag. ​ When web browsers read HTML documents it reads them from top to bottom and left to right. HTML tags are used to create HTML documents and render their properties and each HTML tag has different properties depending on its function. ​ An HTML file must have some essential tags so that the web browser can differentiate between simple text and HTML text. You can use as many tags as you want as per your code requirement.

  • Long exposure landscape photography | Qâf ScaleModels Gozo

    Long exposure landscape photography I will discuss the practical aspects of long exposure landscape photography later, but first, we need to consider other key factors in getting quality long exposure photographs. Location is the key The first step in creating stunning long exposure images is choosing the correct landscape, one that is conducive to this kind of photography. Long exposures are ideal for conveying movement, but it can also be used to blur unwanted movement, removing the ripples or waves on a lake or sea scene can give a surreal feel. While showing a river, a waterfall, waves crashing onto a beach, or stormy passing clouds can depict movement and drama. Once a location has been identified, consider the time of day. The golden hour is undoubtedly the best time, and it happens twice a day. The golden hour is the short window of time right after sunrise and again right before sunset, when the air is filled with a flattering golden hue that is perfect for photographing everything from landscapes to portraits. During this time, the sun is low in the sky and more diffuse (and redder) than normal thanks to being filtered for a greater distance through the atmosphere. At golden hour, you will not find the harsh shadows seen at high noon. Because the sun is so low on the horizon, the light is directional, creating long, and soft shadows giving dimension to photographs. That soft dimensional light can be used to achieve creative effects that are not possible at other times of the day. So, when does the golden hour occur? It varies depending on the location, the time of year, and weather conditions. Apps, like PlanIt, can help determine sunrise, sunset times, the direction of the sunrise and sunset, and the optimum golden hour times. A general rule of thumb is that the golden hour is about an hour after sunrise and an hour before sunset. Subject matter Consider ways that can be incorporated into the frame, like static objects, a boulder or two, a tree, jetty, or island in a lake, icebergs, or a wreck on a beach. Walkabout looking for interesting subjects that might provide a focal point. Shoot in RAW ​RAW is a file format like jpeg, but unlike jpeg, it captures all the image data recorded by the camera’s sensor rather than compressing it. Shooting in RAW provides higher quality images but also allows for more control in post-processing. For instance, correcting underexposure problems or adjusting aspects like colour temperature, white balance, or contrast. ​However, one negative aspect of shooting in RAW is that the files take up more space, so I advise using larger SD or Micro SD Cards. Furthermore, RAW photos need some sort of post-processing, so photo editing software is essential. Set the cameras White Balance If the camera is set to Auto White Balance, it will compensate for all the beautiful warm tones you are there specifically for. Auto White Balance makes images bluer than required for the golden hour. In RAW, it is easy to adjust the white balance in post, nevertheless, it is still a good idea to manually set the white balance to get a better idea of what the scene is meant to look like. For beginners, a good initial point for beginners is setting it to shade or cloudy to help get the required golden hues. Aperture Priority mode Aperture Priority mode allows you to choose your aperture and the camera will automatically determine the best shutter speed. Set the ISO of the camera to 100 or lower if possible and let the camera decide the shutter speed. ISO determines the sensitivity of the camera sensor to light, so using the lowest value means that the sensor is minimally sensitive. Additionally, using the lowest ISO can minimize digital noise or grain in the shot. The less noise, the higher the image quality will be. Of course, a sturdy tripod is essential, and an external shutter release device or set the camera to a 2 or 5-second shutter delay to prevent camera shake. Post-processing Shooting in RAW will undoubtedly require some post-processing to enhance the look and feel of any long exposure landscape image. First consider increasing the blue primary in Lightroom or Photoshop as this will increase the vibrance of any rocks, boulders, tree trunks, etc. Then, think about enhancing colours by boosting saturation or vibrancy. Adjust the levels and curves to create an image with a more robust dynamic range. If you find areas of the shot are too bright or too dark, try your hand at dodging and burning to create a more well-exposed image throughout. ​ However, post-processing is all about personal preference and one’s own creative perspective on photography as it is to compose the shot taken on location. Always make small adjustments that you feel are necessary to create the image desired and keep the master copy unaltered and safe.

  • Landscape | Qâf ScaleModels Gozo

    Landscape Photography Choosing lenses for landscape photography is the same as having numerous paintbrushes for a painter. Lenses allow photographers to transform how a location or subject is portrayed. Depending on the lens you can have, wide-angle views, tight close-ups, the capacity to isolate subjects, and the option to keep everything in a scene in or out of focus. Particularly regarding landscape photography, lenses are one of the few means with which you can really impart personal vision into an image. Apart from lens choice affecting how you portray a setting in nature, landscape photographers also should be concerned with the practicality of such lenses they choose to work with. Remember, less is more, carrying a large selection of lenses for landscape photography is counterproductive and apart from the weight factors having too many lenses can waste time and confuse people. I carry four: ​ Prime 25mm f1.7 lens Zoom 12-60mm f3.5-5.6 Prime 45mm f2.8 Zoom 45-200 f4.0-5.6 (rarely used, mainly to focus on a topic when I cannot get close enough) ​ Zoom lenses are great for difficult topics, like a tree in a lake when you cannot get close enough, but prime lenses make you move about the landscape to compose a subject. Prime lenses make you think more, move in, move out, or perhaps change an angle. Focal length When considering a lens for landscape photography, the most common advice often suggests buying a wide-angle lens. Wide-angle lenses are suitable for landscape photography because of their extensive field of view and far-seeing depth of field, both desirable attributes for landscape photography. Wide-angle lenses allow you to fit an entire mountain in the background, or lake in the foreground of the frame, they can also be used to show a great deal of land, sea, sky, or forest. The extra depth of field they provide helps to ensure consistent sharp focus from foreground to background, which can be beneficial when photographing large expanses. Considering wide-angle lenses are the alleged standard for landscape applications, this must not deter a photographer from considering a normal (50mm, similar to human depth-of-field) or telephoto focal length for photographing landscapes. Occasionally, using a telephoto lens can provide a little extra reach for visual compression, thereby, creating interest in an image. Zoom or prime? The debate between zoom and prime lenses will continue, and the discussion is particularly ironic in the sphere of landscape photography. The merit of zoom is the ability to zoom into a landscape or topic when restricted to a specific location. Conversely, zooms can increase complacency or laziness when photographing an area, whereas prime lenses will force a motivated photographer to hike more, move about the area, searching for a more rewarding viewpoint to photograph the landscape. ​ The image-quality differences between zoom and prime lenses are debatable, there are many high-quality zooms (at a cost), and there are high-quality prime lenses. Many wider focal length lenses are available in zoom format, like my zoom 12-60mm f3.5-5.6. It gives a little leeway in the composition, but it does not mean I will not walk about first to find the optimal spot for composition. It just helps to emphasize the tree in the lake, or a boulder with the evening glow of a sunset, rather than having it off in the distance. Of course, you will need a sturdy tripod, perhaps filters, or reflectors, so, their weight should be considered. ​ I use a Bergan that carries two camera bodies, four lenses, an external monitor, filters, spare batteries, a large steady tripod, and an extra-long quick-release rail plate with spirit levels. Deciding between zoom or prime lenses depends on your own needs, such as the distance or access to walk around a subject, how much weight, how many lenses to be carried, and personal preference for focal length. Links: Long exposure landscape photography

  • Recovery Mode | Qâf ScaleModels Gozo

    System Recovery Mode Windows Recovery Mode - MS Windows 10/11 allows a recovery USB Drive to be generated. Manufacturers of pre-built desktops and laptops have their own recovery media embedded into the system, so pressing the F11 key may not work on all PCs as there is no one standard and many manufacturers use F9, F10, or F12 keys to enter recovery mode. ​ Press the Windows tab and type ‘Recovery Media’ then follow the instructions. Create a bootable USB drive using the Command Line (CMD). ​ When needed insert ‘Recovery USB drive’, and then restart your computer and press F11 before the MS Windows logo appears. ​ However, true recovery will put the computer back to its factory state and you will lose data and some programs. If you want to revert and completely clean the computer this option may be appropriate. I also use the ‘system Image’ option as this will back up the data and programs installed. ​ Various options for recovery. ​ Enter Recovery Mode using the Start Menu option: ​ The Start menu’s Restart option provides one of the most reliable methods for entering recovery mode. Click the Start button in Windows 10/11. Then click the Power button. Press and hold the Shift key. Then click Restart while holding the Shift key. After that, select Troubleshoot and Advanced options on the blue menu. ​ Enter Recovery Mode with a bootable USB drive: ​ Users can enter recovery mode with a bootable USB drive that they can install (or reinstall) Windows 10 with. First, users will need to set up the bootable USB drive with the Windows Recovery option or Image file. Users will also need to configure their PCs to boot from USB drives first by adjusting the BIOS or UEFI settings. Thereafter, insert a bootable USB drive into a PC’s USB slot. Turn the laptop or desktop on. Then a Windows Setup window will appear if the PC is configured to boot from USB drives. Click Next on the Windows setup window. Select the Repair your computer option. Then select Troubleshoot and click on Advanced Options to enter the Advanced Start-up Options menu. ​ Select the Restart now option: ​ Users can also get to Advanced Start-up Options by clicking the Restart now an option in Settings. Click the Type here to search button on Windows 10’s taskbar. Enter the keyword recover in the search box to find the Recovery option. Click Recovery to open the window shown directly below. Click the Restart now button under Advanced start-up. The PC will restart to the Choose an option menu from which users can select Troubleshoot and then Advanced options. ​ Enter Recovery Mode using Command Prompt. ​ The Command Prompt provides another way to access recovery mode. Type cmd in Windows Search and click on Run as an administrator to start Command Prompt. Input the following command and press Enter: shutdown /r /o Click Close on the You are about to be signed out a prompt that appears. Thereafter, select Troubleshoot and Advanced options after the restart. ​ So, there are few ways users can enter Windows 10’s recovery mode. When users enter the recovery mode, they can then utilise the System Restore, Command Prompt, System Image Recovery, and Start-up Repair utilities. Create a bootable USB flash drive using CMD. ​ Insert a USB flash drive into a running computer. Open a Command Prompt (CMD) window as an administrator. Type diskpart . In the new command line window that opens, to determine the USB flash drive number or drive letter, at the command prompt, type list disk , and then click ENTER . The list disk command displays all the disks on the computer. Note the drive number or drive letter of the USB flash drive. At the command prompt, type select disk , where X is the drive number or drive letter of the USB flash drive, and then click ENTER . Type clean , and click ENTER . This command deletes all data from the USB flash drive. To create a new primary partition on the USB flash drive, type create partition primary and then click ENTER . To select the partition that you just created, type select partition 1 , and then click ENTER. To format the partition, type f ormat fs=ntfs quick, and then click ENTER .

bottom of page