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Datoranvändning Python is an advanced programming language that is object-oriented, interpreted, and built on flexible and robust semantics. Why learn it? Python is easy to learn and lets programmers quickly integrate systems as scripting or glue language. It is also suited for Rapid Application Development, such as: Writing games for their inner logic, comprising Artificial Intelligence factors. NASA uses Python as a standard scripting language in its Integrated Planning System. Its Features are: Easy to learn and read. Associated web structures for developing internet-based applications. Has a free interpreter and standard library accessible in source or binary on major platforms. Who uses it: Python developers, software engineers, back end developers, Python programmers Used by employers in information technology, engineering, professional services, and design.

Diodes Dioder är halvledarkomponenter som fungerar som envägsströmbrytare. Dioder tillåter ström att strömma lätt i en riktning men hindrar allvarligt ström från att strömma i motsatt riktning. Dioder har polaritet, bestämd av en anod (positiv ledning) och katoden (negativ ledning). Många dioder tillåter ström att bara strömma när en positiv spänning appliceras på anoden. De är också kända som likriktare eftersom de ändrar växelström (AC) till pulserande likström (DC). Dioder klassificeras enligt deras typ, spänning och strömkapacitet. Dioder finns i många konfigurationer, till exempel: Metallväska Stud monter Plastfodral med band Plastfodral med fas Glasmonter Dioder är förspända framåt när de tillåter strömflöde, omvänd förspänt tillåter det inte att ström flyter och fungerar som en isolator. En symbol för symbol för diodkretsdiagram pekar mot elektronflödets riktning. Spänningen som anbringas på anoden är positiv med avseende på katoden. Spänningen i dioden är också högre än tröskelspänningen, så den fungerar som en kortslutning och låter ström strömma. Om katoden görs positiv med avseende på anoden, är dioden omvänd förspänd. Det kommer då att fungera som en öppen krets; därför kommer ingen ström att strömma. Vad används dioder till? Omvänd strömskydd Blockeringsdioder används i vissa elektroniska kretsar för skydd, till exempel ett oavsiktligt bakåtkopplingsproblem: Ansluta en likströmsförsörjning på fel sätt Omvänd polaritet Eftersom strömmen i fel riktning kan skada andra kretskomponenter. Enkel spänningsregulator Spänningsregulatorer används för att trappa ner ingångsspänningen till önskad nivå och kommer att hålla den stabil trots fluktuationer i matningen. De kan också reglera utspänningarna, Zener-dioder används vanligtvis som en spänningsregulator eftersom den är utformad för att fungera i omvänd förspänning, men fungerar också som normala signaldioder när de är i förspänning.

RAID Redundant Array of Independent Disks (RAID) is a group of hard drives, controller cards, and software to increase the reliability and redundancy of data storage on hard drives. RAID comes in multiple configurations, offering enhanced performance and/or better data reliability. Data is distributed across the drives in one of several ways called ‘RAID levels’, depending on the level of redundancy and performance required. ​ RAID numbers are allocated according to the required protection or reliability level required, RAID-5 for example, is not representative of the number of drives involved. The most common RAID implementations are 0, -1, and 5 . RAID can be implemented with and without the ability to hot-swap a drive. ​ RAID 0 ­- The data is written across multiple drives to improve access performance. There is no data redundancy. For example, a 4Meg file would be written across 4 drives in 1Meg pieces. Note that the failure of one drive will render the data inaccessible. The advantage is a much higher throughput. The RAID numbers are, click on each for its meaning: RAID 1 RAID 2 RAID 3 RAID 4 RAID 5 RAID 6 RAID 10 Almost all manufacturers provide a diverse of plug-in controllers that allow RAID execution. These controllers interface with SCSI drives and are available in ISA (Industry Standard Architecture) and PCI (Peripheral Component Interconnect) configurations, the highest throughput is via the PCI format. RAID support for IDE drives is not generally available. ​ All SCSI drives can be used with a RAID controller, and different drive manufacturers' sizes and throughputs can be used on the same bus. Controller manufacturers provide additional information on expectations. RAID controllers can also act as generic drive controllers interfacing to CD, DVD, and Tape Drives and external accessories like Scanners. ​ RAID drives either be permanently mounted in a chassis, mounted in external drive bays, or externally using Hot-swappable enclosures that each hard drive can be installed or removed without powering down the host computer. eSATA, FireWire, and USB are examples of interfaces that are hot-swappable on computers. ​ Full RAID protection can be realised even in non-removable drive situations where the RAID system provides data protection and time to take the system off-line to replace a failed drive. This can certainly be a less expensive and potentially more reliable option in place of using expensive removable drive carriers.

Tools Whether they be scrap build or model kits there is a vast array of tools available to make and modify models. Before deciding what tools you need, decide what type of models you are going to build, a few are: ​ Scale model building, plastic model kits, have a magnitude of types, such as: Model military vehicles, figures, and terrain. Model aircraft. Model cars, commercial, and construction vehicles. Model rockets. Naval, ship models. Architectural models, cardboard, or high-density foam buildings. Model figures or busts. Rail transport modelling (probably the most well-known). Gundam models. Scenery to stage models. So, model building is not exclusively a hobbyist pursuit. The complexity of assembling representations of actual objects has become a career for numerous people. Some build models to commemorate historic events or commissioned to construct models using past events as a basis to predict future events of high commercial interest, while others work for the film industry. ​ In the 1950-60s, a relative built live steam engine models from scratch, and I can remember watching him work. The UK has an extremely high fraternity of live steam engine modellers, partly, I think to the vast community of steam engines/traction engines in the UK. There is a basic list of tools required to build plastic scale model kits, mine is: Sprue cutters – removing items off the sprue. Finer plastic cutters – trimming off excess. Scalpel handles or hobby knife – trimming and removing mold lines, cutting decals. I prefer scalpel handles and have: Numbers 3, 4, 5, 7 and a long scalpel handle that takes N◦.20/22/24 blades. But I use mostly the size 10 blades that have a sharp point. I have medical sharps boxes for the disposal of blades. Dissecting Forceps – plain dissecting forceps, I use a variety suited to handling models and decals, such as: Atraumatic – thumb style used for grasping delicate tissue. Adson – serrated jaws with wide, flat thumb grasp area used for delicate tissue. Artery clip – used to apply and remove scalpel blades from knife handles. I use a variety, but mostly: De Bakey Forceps. Dunhill Artery Forceps. Mosquito Artery Forceps. Various pliers –non-aggressive. Scissors – straight and curved, plus special scissors for decals. Toothbrushes – fine, medium, and hard. Marking pens – various. Alligator clips placed on barbecue skewers for airbrushing. Sanding sticks – various grades. Paint - as mentioned in the paint section, water-based acrylic paint is the most commonly used to spray plastic models. Paintbrushes - sizes of models vary greatly if you are interested in Warhammer 28mm figures or painting busts a good selection of paintbrushes is vital. They range in size, from 000 up. Specialised Equipment Among my tools, I have some specialised equipment that makes life a lot easier, such as my: ​ Vortex Mixer – I have used this to mix my paint for many years and it is fantastic and a godsend (as I have arthritis in most of my joints), I have just ordered a replacement as it eventually failed, not surprising really considering the amount of use it gets. ​ Food Dehydrator – I have one that heats to 80°C but tend to run it at 70°C, it has 10 shelves and a fantastic piece of equipment, large enough to get a 1:32 tank fully built easily. If you decide to get one make sure it is large enough, the smaller plastic dehydrators will not take anything big. We also use it to dry fruit, meat, and flowers. You must let the sprayed models dry to touch (about 20 minutes) before putting them in the dehydrator. But the dehydrator will cure primer, varnish, and laquear paint in 4 hours that would normally take between 2 to 3 weeks. And when using acrylic, I have completely sprayed a tank and weathered and built it in a day. Mine is ECO friendly and uses minimal electricity, it came with 10 stainless steel and 4 plastic trays. ​ Additional Air Compressor Tank – my air compressor has a 2.5L tank, which is fine, but I purchased an additional 5L air compressor tank just to keep the noise levels down when videoing in my workshop. Nova3D Printer – I use this to print replacements for damaged model parts or when designing terrain for my dioramas. ​ Colour Laser Printer – I rarely use decals from the manufacturers who make the model kits as I find them of poor quality, so, I either airbrush the design directly onto the model or scan it onto my computer, edit it (if required) and then print them.

Landscape Photography Choosing lenses for landscape photography is the same as having numerous paintbrushes for a painter. Lenses allow photographers to transform how a location or subject is portrayed. Depending on the lens you can have, wide-angle views, tight close-ups, the capacity to isolate subjects, and the option to keep everything in a scene in or out of focus. Particularly regarding landscape photography, lenses are one of the few means with which you can really impart personal vision into an image. Apart from lens choice affecting how you portray a setting in nature, landscape photographers also should be concerned with the practicality of such lenses they choose to work with. Remember, less is more, carrying a large selection of lenses for landscape photography is counterproductive and apart from the weight factors having too many lenses can waste time and confuse people. I carry four: ​ Prime 25mm f1.7 lens Zoom 12-60mm f3.5-5.6 Prime 45mm f2.8 Zoom 45-200 f4.0-5.6 (rarely used, mainly to focus on a topic when I cannot get close enough) ​ Zoom lenses are great for difficult topics, like a tree in a lake when you cannot get close enough, but prime lenses make you move about the landscape to compose a subject. Prime lenses make you think more, move in, move out, or perhaps change an angle. Focal length When considering a lens for landscape photography, the most common advice often suggests buying a wide-angle lens. Wide-angle lenses are suitable for landscape photography because of their extensive field of view and far-seeing depth of field, both desirable attributes for landscape photography. Wide-angle lenses allow you to fit an entire mountain in the background, or lake in the foreground of the frame, they can also be used to show a great deal of land, sea, sky, or forest. The extra depth of field they provide helps to ensure consistent sharp focus from foreground to background, which can be beneficial when photographing large expanses. Considering wide-angle lenses are the alleged standard for landscape applications, this must not deter a photographer from considering a normal (50mm, similar to human depth-of-field) or telephoto focal length for photographing landscapes. Occasionally, using a telephoto lens can provide a little extra reach for visual compression, thereby, creating interest in an image. Zoom or prime? The debate between zoom and prime lenses will continue, and the discussion is particularly ironic in the sphere of landscape photography. The merit of zoom is the ability to zoom into a landscape or topic when restricted to a specific location. Conversely, zooms can increase complacency or laziness when photographing an area, whereas prime lenses will force a motivated photographer to hike more, move about the area, searching for a more rewarding viewpoint to photograph the landscape. ​ The image-quality differences between zoom and prime lenses are debatable, there are many high-quality zooms (at a cost), and there are high-quality prime lenses. Many wider focal length lenses are available in zoom format, like my zoom 12-60mm f3.5-5.6. It gives a little leeway in the composition, but it does not mean I will not walk about first to find the optimal spot for composition. It just helps to emphasize the tree in the lake, or a boulder with the evening glow of a sunset, rather than having it off in the distance. Of course, you will need a sturdy tripod, perhaps filters, or reflectors, so, their weight should be considered. ​ I use a Bergan that carries two camera bodies, four lenses, an external monitor, filters, spare batteries, a large steady tripod, and an extra-long quick-release rail plate with spirit levels. Deciding between zoom or prime lenses depends on your own needs, such as the distance or access to walk around a subject, how much weight, how many lenses to be carried, and personal preference for focal length. Links: Long exposure landscape photography

Care of Paint Brushes Paint Brush Care Always dampen brushes BEFORE use unless they are specified dry brushes. If you load a dry brush with wet colour, the colour begins to dry in the centre of the bristles down close to the ferrule. Dampening the bristles reduces paintability to dry in the centre. But do not just dip the brush into the water and then go into the colour, the moisture needs to be worked into the hair/bristles of the brush. Working the brush on the palm of your hand and forcing the moisture into the bristles helps, it also transfers some of the oil from your hand and helps to condition the brush. Following that, dab the brush on a towel to remove excess moisture before dipping into the colour. ​ Never place brushes loaded with paint aside and allow them to dry in the hair/bristles. It is better to wash the brush immediately when done using them, even if the brush is only going to be inactive for a few minutes. When rinsing brushes, it is not advisable to scrape the brush around the bottom of the cleaning jar/container. Firstly, paint pigment drops to the bottom of the container, secondly, doing this can damage the hair/bristles. Some cleaning containers have drainage sieves or coils at the bottom so that any brush washed is kept away from the pigment sediment at the bottom, but rigorous cleaning on these can still damage hair/bristles. Gently swish the brush back and forth in the bowl and allow it to brush against the sides or bottom. Brush basins with rounded, textured bottoms are perfect for aiding the process. It is good practice to change the water on a regular basis and to have separate containers to wash different paint types. Being mostly involved in model kit builds, and do a great amount of airbrushing, I only use De-Ionised water. I have washpot/rinse pots for: ​ Acrylic paints an initial wash in between paint colour changes. Acrylic paints second rinse, following finishing with a particular colour, before proper cleaning and conditioning of paintbrush before putting away. Metallics. Decal brush, Washes, or Glazes. ​ Do not leave any brush in water for extended periods because with wooden brushes the wetness can cause the handle to swell, resulting in cracking paint and unstable ends. Synthetic brush hair is glued into position, and prolonged standing in water can break down the glue making the hair loose. ​ After rinsing, brushes do not allow them to dry with the bristles/hair face upward or flat on a rack or table, as this can damage the ferrule and can possibly soften the glue them as mentioned above. Drip drying racks are plentiful, these allow users to place brushes with their bristles/hair face facing downward, allowing the moisture to drain away. After washing the brush, check to see if any colour remains in the hair by brushing across a paper towel, do not push forward, as this will damage the bristles/hair. If the colour appears on the towel, rinse again. Cleaning materials advised are: ​ Brush Paint Cleaner or Purger Brush Conditioning Soap Brush Conditioner Gel ​ When storing natural haired brushes for long periods use a brush conditioner soap to thoroughly clean them. Brush Conditioning Soap or Gel can also be used to reshape the bristles/hair and stored in this way. ​ With Brush Conditioning Soap, moisten the dip the bristles/hair and gently work the bristles/hair into the soap, rinse and when no further paint pigment is visible in the Conditioning Soap, either twist into its original shape or use a Conditioning gel to do the same. ​ When storing brushes do not store them in confined containers where the hairs can get pushed out of shape or break.

What is a computer? Computers are not really that mysterious. There’s no shadowy gremlin cycling his way around a treadmill to make it run. Although sometimes one feels there is a gremlin at work pulling the operating system or data apart. ​ Computers have evolved immensely since I started building them, moving from measly Kilobytes of RAM to Gigabytes. Floppy Drives made way for DVD Drives and now DVD Drives are virtually obsolete, Hard drives have also changed, from mechanical, hybrids, then Solid State and have increased in size, speed, and reliability. ​ I will discuss individual components, operating systems, networking, and driver/software programming later. What is a computer? ​ Well, it is several devices put together to make an electronic device that can manipulate and store data. They come in various formats, but the main are: ​ Desktop Laptop Tablets and Smart Phones Servers ​ Using the correct software, computers have the capability to process, store and retrieve data. Whether it be, a document, mathematical problem, spreadsheet, presentation, image, or video. They can be used to browse the Internet, send emails, video conferencing, play games, write computer language, and used to access online shops. A computer is made up of several parts: ​ Motherboard or Mainboard – The motherboard is the device that ties the computer’s components together and allows each component to communicate with each other using software and device drivers. Without the motherboard, none of the attached devices, such as the CPU, GPU, or HDD could interact. Central Processing Unit (CPU) – A central processing unit (CPU), also known as a processor, is located on the motherboard. Memory (RAM) – RAM is short for ‘Random Access Memory’ and while it may sound enigmatic, RAM is one of the most important elements of computing. It is the super-fast and temporary data storage space that a computer needs to access right now or in the next few moments. Hard Drive (HDD) – come in numerous speeds and sizes. These days, they are rated in Gigabytes or Terabytes and increasingly are now Solid State Drives as opposed to the older mechanical drives. Power Supply Unit (PSU) – A PSU converts mains alternating current AC into a low-voltage regulated direct current power supply that power the internal components of a computer. Modern personal computers universally use switched-mode power supplies. Some power supplies have a manual switch for selecting input voltage, while others automatically adapt to the mains voltage. Modern desktop personal computer PSUs conform to the ATX specification and often come with removable leads. Video Graphics Card (GPU) – A video graphics card (also known as display card, graphics adapter, or display adapter) is an expansion card that generates a feed of output images to a display device (monitor). Frequently, these are advertised as discrete or dedicated graphics, emphasizing the distinction between these and integrated graphics. At the core of both is the graphics processing unit (GPU), which is the main part that does the actual computations. Computer Case - Most people skimp on the case because they do not see it as an important commodity. My last case, lasted five years and is now a Linux server. It was a great case but lacked 200mm fan mountings and not large enough for the new generation graphics cards and did not facilitate water cooling. My advice is when purchasing a computer case buy a well-known dedicated gaming case that is suitable for expansion and water cooling options. ​

Memory (RAM) Memory (RAM) – RAM is short for ‘Random Access Memory’ and while it may sound enigmatic, RAM is one of the most important elements of computing. It is the super-fast and temporary data storage space that a computer needs to access right now or in the next few moments. DDR vs SDRAM ​ DDR (DDR1), DDR2, DDR3, DDR4, and DDR5 are newer variations of the older SDRAM. SDRAM and DDR RAM are memory-integrated circuits used in computers. SDRAM is a generic name for many types of DRAM that synchronizes with the microprocessor’s (CPU) clock speed. ​ DRAM had an asynchronous interface; it responds as quickly as possible to changes in control inputs. Both SDRAM and DDR RAM have a synchronous interface, so it waits for a clock signal before responding to control inputs and is therefore synchronized with the computer’s system bus. ​ This allows the memory chip to have a more complex pattern of operation than an asynchronous DRAM. This is also why the speed of SDRAM and DDR RAM is rated in MHz rather than in nanoseconds (ns). ​ SDRAM usually refers to the first generation of synchronous DRAM, so is slower than succeeding generations of DDR because only one word of data is transmitted per clock cycle (single data rate). The second generation of synchronous DRAM memory chips was DDR (or DDR1). ​ DDR is short for Double Data Rate. It is a memory that uses both the rising and falling edge of the system clock that has the potential of doubling the speed of the memory. So, the chip reads or writes two words of data per clock cycle. The DDR interface achieves this by reading and writing data on both the rising and falling edges of the clock signal.

Long exposure landscape photography I will discuss the practical aspects of long exposure landscape photography later, but first, we need to consider other key factors in getting quality long exposure photographs. Location is the key The first step in creating stunning long exposure images is choosing the correct landscape, one that is conducive to this kind of photography. Long exposures are ideal for conveying movement, but it can also be used to blur unwanted movement, removing the ripples or waves on a lake or sea scene can give a surreal feel. While showing a river, a waterfall, waves crashing onto a beach, or stormy passing clouds can depict movement and drama. Once a location has been identified, consider the time of day. The golden hour is undoubtedly the best time, and it happens twice a day. The golden hour is the short window of time right after sunrise and again right before sunset, when the air is filled with a flattering golden hue that is perfect for photographing everything from landscapes to portraits. During this time, the sun is low in the sky and more diffuse (and redder) than normal thanks to being filtered for a greater distance through the atmosphere. At golden hour, you will not find the harsh shadows seen at high noon. Because the sun is so low on the horizon, the light is directional, creating long, and soft shadows giving dimension to photographs. That soft dimensional light can be used to achieve creative effects that are not possible at other times of the day. So, when does the golden hour occur? It varies depending on the location, the time of year, and weather conditions. Apps, like PlanIt, can help determine sunrise, sunset times, the direction of the sunrise and sunset, and the optimum golden hour times. A general rule of thumb is that the golden hour is about an hour after sunrise and an hour before sunset. Subject matter Consider ways that can be incorporated into the frame, like static objects, a boulder or two, a tree, jetty, or island in a lake, icebergs, or a wreck on a beach. Walkabout looking for interesting subjects that might provide a focal point. Shoot in RAW ​RAW is a file format like jpeg, but unlike jpeg, it captures all the image data recorded by the camera’s sensor rather than compressing it. Shooting in RAW provides higher quality images but also allows for more control in post-processing. For instance, correcting underexposure problems or adjusting aspects like colour temperature, white balance, or contrast. ​However, one negative aspect of shooting in RAW is that the files take up more space, so I advise using larger SD or Micro SD Cards. Furthermore, RAW photos need some sort of post-processing, so photo editing software is essential. Set the cameras White Balance If the camera is set to Auto White Balance, it will compensate for all the beautiful warm tones you are there specifically for. Auto White Balance makes images bluer than required for the golden hour. In RAW, it is easy to adjust the white balance in post, nevertheless, it is still a good idea to manually set the white balance to get a better idea of what the scene is meant to look like. For beginners, a good initial point for beginners is setting it to shade or cloudy to help get the required golden hues. Aperture Priority mode Aperture Priority mode allows you to choose your aperture and the camera will automatically determine the best shutter speed. Set the ISO of the camera to 100 or lower if possible and let the camera decide the shutter speed. ISO determines the sensitivity of the camera sensor to light, so using the lowest value means that the sensor is minimally sensitive. Additionally, using the lowest ISO can minimize digital noise or grain in the shot. The less noise, the higher the image quality will be. Of course, a sturdy tripod is essential, and an external shutter release device or set the camera to a 2 or 5-second shutter delay to prevent camera shake. Post-processing Shooting in RAW will undoubtedly require some post-processing to enhance the look and feel of any long exposure landscape image. First consider increasing the blue primary in Lightroom or Photoshop as this will increase the vibrance of any rocks, boulders, tree trunks, etc. Then, think about enhancing colours by boosting saturation or vibrancy. Adjust the levels and curves to create an image with a more robust dynamic range. If you find areas of the shot are too bright or too dark, try your hand at dodging and burning to create a more well-exposed image throughout. ​ However, post-processing is all about personal preference and one’s own creative perspective on photography as it is to compose the shot taken on location. Always make small adjustments that you feel are necessary to create the image desired and keep the master copy unaltered and safe.

Cornwall Out of gallery

Raid 5 to 10 RAID 5, 6 and 10 RAID 5 is block-level striping with distributed parity that allocates parity with the data and needs all the HDDs but one to be present to operate. In this configuration, the array is not destroyed by a single drive failure. When an HDD fails any successive reads can be calculated from the distributed parity, so, the HDD failure is masked from the end-user. RAID 5 requires at least three disks and is often and is reliable a good system to use because if an HDD fails your data is safe on the other HDDs. ​ Also, if you replace the failed HDD with a new HDD it will automatically take over the function of the failed HDD. RAID 6 is block-level striping with double distributed parity that provides fault tolerance up to two failed HDDs. This makes larger RAID groups more practical, particularly for high-end systems. These days this is increasingly significant as large capacity HDDs prolong the time needed to recover from a single HDD failure. ​ Similar to RAID 5 , a single HDD failure results in reduced performance of the total array until the failed HDD has been replaced and the data has been rebuilt. RAID 10 , sometimes mentioned as RAID 1+0 mirroring and striping occurs. Data is written in stripes across primary disks that have been mirrored to the secondary disks. ​ This is the best RAID system, one I have used for a long time.

Orkidéer Orkidéer har en unik aura om dem och kommer från alla delar av världen. Orkidéer har en stor mångfald i färger, former, storlekar och dofter, men inte alla har behagliga dofter. De växer in i tropiska, tempererade och vissa i nästan frysande förhållanden. Många anser att orkidéer är svåra att växa och blomstra. Faktum är att de flesta orkidéer är lätta att odla och att få blomstra, men med alla planeter krävs rätt förhållanden. Ett antal är praktiskt taget oförstörbara och med några grundläggande tips kan de flesta odla orkidéer så att de inte bara trivs utan blommar. Orkidéer har en unik aura om dem och kommer från alla delar av världen. Orkidéer har en stor mångfald i färger, former, storlekar och dofter, men inte alla har behagliga dofter. De växer i tropiska, tempererade och vissa i nästan frysande förhållanden. Många anser att orkidéer är svåra att växa och blomstra. Faktum är att de flesta orkidéer är lätta att odla och att få blomstra, men med alla planeter krävs rätt förhållanden. Ett antal är praktiskt taget oförstörbara och med några grundläggande tips kan de flesta odla orkidéer så att de inte bara trivs utan blommar. Bland de enklaste typerna av orkidéer att växa är: Phalaenopsis (uttalad - Fal-en-op-sis) Dendrobium (uttalad - Den-droh-bee-um) Cattleya (uttalad - Kat-lee-ya). Cymbidium (uttalad - Sim-bid-ee-um) Coelogyne (uttalad - See-loj-in-ee), Coelogyne Alba har en fantastisk doft. Mångfald Även om över 35 000 orkidearter bor på vår planet, har människor hybridiserat dessa arter för att skapa över 200 000 hybrider. Många odlas för sina attraktiva blommor, men utsäde av vaniljorkidén ger den populära smaken. Till skillnad från de flesta växter kan orkidéer växa i luften. Deras rötter fäster vid träd eller stenar där de kan fånga fukt och näringsämnen. Forntida härstamning Bevis tyder på att orkidéer härstammar från när dinosaurier strövade på planeten för ungefär 120 miljoner år sedan och många har en koppling till vissa typer av insekter eller fåglar för att de ska kunna pollinera sina blommor. Orkidéer är en stor, mångsidig och unik familj av växter. Orkidéer eller Orchidaceae är blommor av monokot i superordern Liliiflorae. Monocots är möjligen de viktigaste växterna på jorden och härstammar från våra fyra viktigaste livsmedel, såsom ris, majs, vete och korn. Andra, som bambu och palmer, är en primär källa till byggmaterial i många länder, och sockerrör, ananas, dadlar och bananer kommer från monocots. Orkidéfamiljen innehåller fler arter än någon annan familj av växter - vissa botaniker uppskattar för att innehålla cirka 25 000 till 35 000 arter. Orkidéer blommar i ett brett utbud av färger och former och de lever i en mängd olika livsmiljöer, från: Lev i direkt solljus, skugga, svala och kalla klimat Klättra på stenar, träd Väx på marken En annan funktion om orkidéer är att de har flera kännetecken, som: Pistlar (kvinnlig del) Ståndare (manlig del) Orkidéer kommer karakteristiskt i två huvudformer, monopodiala och sympodiala orkidéer. Monopodial orkidéer har stammar som växer på obestämd tid. Denna typ av orkidéblad växer alltid från slutet av en stam och monopodial orkidéer producerar ofta luftrötter längs sina stjälkar. Monopodial Orchids har inga pseudobulbs, de producerar ny tillväxt från plantans krona och rötterna kan vara särskilt tillfälliga. Det är inte ovanligt att ha luftrötter med jämna mellanrum längs stammen, särskilt på arter som Vandas. Blomspikarna, eller blomställningen, växer från stammens sida, inte från slutet. Populära monopodial orkidéer inkluderar: Vanda Phalaenopsis Sympodial orkidéer kategoriseras genom att ha en följd av skott eller glödlampor, kända som pseudobulbs. Pseudobulbs stiger från basen på den före den och varje pseudobulb har begränsad tillväxt. Rötter bildas normalt från basen av pseudobulbs eller längs rhizomen. Blomspiken av Sympodial orkidéer stiger från basen av pseudobulben eller till och med från en rhizom. Tropiska orkidéer är ofta sympodiala och populära sympodiala orkidéer inkluderar: Cattleyas Dendrobiums Oncidiums Spathoglottis Sympodiala orkidéer har pseudobulbs som växer på en rhizom. Dessa kan verka korta så att glödlamporna verkar fästa vid varandra eller tillräckligt långa för att det kommer några centimeter mellan dem. Det är nödvändigt att regelbundet potatisera dessa orkidéer på grund av det omfattande laterala tillväxtmönstret.